The Brillant-Cut Diamond Set is part of the crown jewels and consists of a necklace, a brooch and a pair of pendant earrings.
From ring to hairpin
Many of the stones in the brilliant set came from the jewels that Queen Sophie Magdalene left to the Danish crown in her will in 1746. This includes the large drop-shaped diamond pendeloque at the centre of the necklace, which was originally part of Sophie Magdalene’s hairpin. The hairpin appears to have held special meaning for the Queen, as it was not just the most precious but also the first piece of jewellery to be listed in her will. Perhaps the Queen’s attachment to the hairpin was due to another large stone in the pin: a large brilliant-cut diamond that is now included in the string of brilliants in the necklace. Reportedly, this particular stone was originally set in a ring that Sophie Magdalene gave Crown Prince Christian (VI) at the couple’s wedding in Saxony in 1721.
From hairpin to ring
The large square brilliant in the middle of the necklace also belonged to Sophie Magdalene, who wore it in her hair or as a pendant on a necklace. In 1766, it was set in a ring that the newly married Christian VII gave to his English bride, Queen Caroline Mathilde, just 15 years of age and recently arrived from the British royal court. It is easy to imagine that the sheer size of the stone may have given her a sense of both the splendour and the gravity of the position that awaited her – a position she would later squander through her illicit affair with the court physician, Johann Friederich Struensee. In 1772, she was divorced from Christian VII and subsequently deported to Hannover. Her ring, with the large brilliant, was returned to the Danish crown. Two generations later, Caroline Amalie had the stone incorporated into the current brilliant set.
The large brilliant-cut diamond at the centre of the chain was previously mounted on a ring given by the newly married Christian VII to his English bride, Caroline Mathilde. The six other large brilliants were also worn by Caroline Mathilde.
Originally, the drop-shaped diamonds were part of a set of earrings given to her by Christian VII, along with the ring with the large brilliant, at their wedding, in 1766.
The other brilliant-cut diamonds come from Sophie Magdalene’s and Princess Charlotte Amalie’s jewellery.
The set also includes a pair of earring pendants. They are fastened with standard clips, but to distribute their weight and secure them better, each earring also has a brace that wraps around the ear.
Today, the crown jewels, including the Brilliant-Cut Diamond Set, are at the disposal of HM Queen Mary.
During her reign, HM Queen Margrethe often wore the Brilliant-Cut Diamond Set or parts of it on special occasions.
HM Queen Margrethe wore the necklace, the earrings and the brooch at the wedding of the current Royal Couple at the Church of Our Lady, in 2004.
The Brilliant-Cut Diamond Set includes a brooch designed as a bouquet with foliage and flowers covered with brilliants. Several of the flowers have a yellowish diamond at the centre.
In a sophisticated detail, the largest flower is mounted on a spiral spring that vibrates when the brooch is worn. This maximises the play of light in the many brilliant-cut stones.
The brooch was inspired by a by a similar brooch created by Queen Sophie Magdalene, which Caroline Mathilde sold, with Struensee’s help, shortly after their affair had begun
With the new brooch and the central placement of the large stone from Caroline Mathilde’s ring in the necklace, Caroline Amalie made amends for past transgressions and gave a discreet nod to her grandparents – Caroline Mathilde and Struensee.
