The Pearl-Ruby Set

The rubies and large pearls are the oldest pieces in the crown jewels.

Photographer: Iben Kaufmann

Today, the pearl-ruby set is available to HM Queen Mary. HM Queen Margrethe wore the set at HRH Crown Prince's birthday in 2023 with a small clasp at the front of the chain.

The history of the pearl-ruby set

 

In its current form, the set was created in 1842 for Queen Caroline Amalie by the jewellery firm C.M. Weishaupt & Söhne in Hanau, Hessen. The short pearl necklace was extended with eight small pearls, and the white pearls were combined with the deep red rubies. The result was a jewellery set in the style of the time, Rococo Revival, in colours that refer to the red-and-white Danish flag.

A new diamond cut

The brooch and the earrings feature rubies, pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds. Caroline Amalie provided the 17 rubies, which originally came from Christian VI’s sister Princess Charlotte Amalie. The deep red rubies add an intense glow, while the brilliant-cut diamonds catch and reflect the light to dazzling effect. The combination of these precious stones creates a visual masterpiece, where the delicate beauty of the pearls and the dazzling glow of the rubies form a perfect harmony.

Facts about the pearl-ruby set

  1. The oldest pieces among the crown jewels

    The large pearls in the necklace can be dated to the late 17th century for certain but may be even older.

  2. The necklace was referred to as a house jewel

    This suggests the necklace had long been part of the Danish royal family's possessions before the crown jewels collection was established.

  3. A practical piece

    The brooch can be disassembled and used in several ways.

Rare pearls

The pearl necklace is one of the oldest pieces in the crown jewels. The large pearls in the necklace can be traced back to the late 17th century with certainty – perhaps even further back, since pearls of this size and regularity are very rare .

1650

Charlotte Amalie (1650-1714)
Portrait of Charlotte Amalie, married to Christian V, wearing a choker of unusually large pearls.
Charlotte Amalie (1650-1714)

1628

Sophie Amalie (1628-1685)
Sophie Amalie is portrayed wearing a necklace of large pearls that may be the necklace from the Pearl-Ruby Set.
Sophie Amalie (1628-1685)

1621

Leonora Christina (1621-1698)
There is also a portrait of Leonora Christina, daughter of Christian IV and Kirsten Munk, that shows her wearing a similar necklace of large pearls.
Leonora Christina (1621-1698)

The Pearl-Ruby Set consists of a pearl necklace, a large brooch with foliation, a pair of earrings and two loose clasps.

Pearl necklace
Pearl necklace

Photographer: Iben Kaufmann

Part of the brooch
Part of the brooch

Photographer: Iben Kaufmann

Part of the brooch
Part of the brooch

Photographer: Iben Kaufmann

Two loose clasps
Two loose clasps

Photographer: Iben Kaufmann

Earrings
Earrings

Photographer: Iben Kaufmann