The rose-cut diamond tiara

A redesigned crown jewel from 2024

In collaboration with the Royal Danish Collection, HM Queen Mary has designed a new frame for mounting parts of the Rose-Cut Diamond Set.

Rarely used  

The Rose-Cut Diamond Set was created in the 1840s and consists of a heavy pendant and a long chain. At the time, this type of chain, worn around a tightly corseted waist, was the height of fashion.

Until the time of the First World War, Danish queens wore the chain in the Rose-Cut Diamond Set in this way around the waist. After this time, however, both corsets and the related belts went out of fashion. As a result, the beautiful Rose-Cut Diamond Set had large gone out of use and has only been worn on a few, special occasions. 

As far as we know, based on sources, neither Queen Alexandrine (1879–1952, Queen of Denmark from 1912 to 1947) or Queen Ingrid (1910–2000, Queen of Denmark from 1947 to 1972) ever wore the set. 

During her reign, HM Queen Margrethe only wore the pendant, and only on two occasions. On both occasions, Queen Margrethe wore the pendant as a brooch.

The design of the new tiara 

The new tiara is designed as so-called bandeau – a head band to be worn as a hair accessory – consisting of a single row of rose-cut diamonds. This simple design maintains the original expression of the belt, where the diamonds are also mounted in a row. 

The tiara was created through the design of a new frame for mounting parts of the Rose-Cut Diamond Set. This enhances the wearability of the jewellery set and lets The Queen wear the largest diamonds as a tiara. 

Naturally, the original mounts and settings have been preserved. Thus, the rose-cut diamonds can still be worn in their original form, as a belt, the way the set was designed in the 1840s, in case corsets ever come back into fashion.

Gallery

Unique shape
Unique shape

The Rose-Cut Diamond Set is not just unique because of the many incredibly beautiful diamonds but also because of the historical cut of the stones. Photo: Iben Kaufmann

The rose cut
The rose cut

A rose-cut stone has a flat base and 24 facets. Because of this, the stones do not reflect the light in the same way as the more advanced brilliant cut, which has 58 facets, as seen, for example, in the Brilliant-Cut Diamond Set. Photo: Iben Kaufman

Museum exhibit and living cultural heritage
Museum exhibit and living cultural heritage

Denmark is unique in exhibiting the country’s beautiful crown jewels, which are not just museum objects but living cultural heritage. Photo: Iben Kaufmann

Historical and contemporary significance
Historical and contemporary significance

With the redesign that created the new tiara, The Queen continues the historical tradition of queens altering the crown jewels to enhance their use. Photo: Iben Kaufmann